Surf’s coming up here at the very end of the 80 day south of the equator sojourn. It’s not surf season but there has been SOME surf anyway. Any go-out is fun. And best ride so far today: drop in, bottom carve, and a bit down the line. Here’s the point:
Looking maybe ESE. Not a great point due to being man made but it breaks off the right side of this rock jetty.
Curious stares from the local surfers as I wade out with a mat and fins. T’s shots remind me just how old I am. But surfing is a essential truth from my 20s when I spent many summers and some winters surfing. Once a surfer, always a surfer, in mind if anything else.
At this point in my mat surfing education I still paddle out but it’s becoming apparent that kicking with the fins is the way to go.
Rode a nice one a good ways in right off: even as the tide was destroying the break it had me hooked enough to keep going out. Snagged a few good waves but, overall, just fun to be out bobbing around in the ocean. Learning to handle the mat is way more difficult than I would have thought. Long enough rides to consciously try to “unweight” my legs and at one point I think it really took of, as mats will do. Tough in basically windblown chop though.
The Landlord, the Man in the Grey Suit, Mr. Fun……. the nicknames abound. One never knows if he will be around. Usually a benevolent landlord though, thank the great maker.
This is the way it’s supposed to go….. a actually well formed wave with a nice face to work. This guy’s in a wetsuit…. unnecessary here. I’ve gotten enough of a taste that now I WANT IT. It’s really reawakened me for surfing….. it IS a essential truth…. at least for me.
And this is epic surf….. the stuff of dreams. Chicama, Peru…. just south of here. A point break that continues on along a sandbar for almost two kilometers, breaking with near this perfection of form almost all the way. Not ethe surfer about to duckdive on the right hand side. This is a good 8 to 10 footer.
Once a surfista……. always a surfista.
Maybe this will be the “before” pic, if I am lucky. Give me a few months surfing and I think I can whip a 57 year old, Alaska reticent body back into form. Drying off at the hostal and classic end of session beverage quaffing. Note the UDT divers fins I have finally whittled down to almost nothing with a jigsaw….. finally can handle them and they work well now.
Me, Henry, and Wayne heading out in the back of a pick-up truck yesterday to check out some country farm property for a friend of ours. Life is good here.
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